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Muni bond funds for a portion of emergency fund?

Muni bond funds for a portion of emergency fund?

Westie
Westie 1,516 XP · · 17 replies

My annual spending is around $85-90k. One of my major goals over the next 2-3 years is to bump up my emergency fund to a full years worth of regular spending (not "oh shit I lost my job time to cut back" spending).

I'm already close to maxing out all the tax-advantaged accounts available to me unless there's some wacky loopholes I don't know about. So I don't plan on using Roth vehicles for any portion of my e-fund.

I don't know much about bonds, so I may be way off base here. But what do you guys think about splitting this eventual e-fund roughly 50/50 with half in HYSA and half in muni bonds? If I'm reading Fidelity's calculators correctly, the tax-equivalent yield of the California bond funds I'm looking at is >5% net of fees, which is better than almost all HYSAs. My thinking is for a 50/50 HYSA/muni bond portfolio:

  • When interest rates go up, bonds go down. HYSA yield goes up, bond yields go down, net effect zero.
  • When interest rates go down, bonds go up. HYSA yield goes down, bond yields go up, net effect zero.

I also have to admit there's some level of pride in my state here too. California has been VERY good to me, and it would feel good to "vote with my dollar". While I know bond trades on the secondary market don't directly help the issuer, at least I'd feel good signaling demand for California bonds.

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Replies (17)

CincyFlyer

CincyFlyer

490 XP

3 months ago

If muni bonds make sense for your tax situation, which usually means a total tax rate of 35%+, then your entire EF should be in short-term munis.

I don’t have CA-specific funds memorized, but at a federal level (all I need to worry about), the best choices I’ve found are FMNDX and MEAR.

Westie

Westie

1,462 XP

3 months ago

Don't you have the same problem as stocks, the fund could dip in value right when you need it?

CincyFlyer

CincyFlyer

490 XP

3 months ago

Those specific funds only use ultra-short munis that are about as stable as T-bills, but they have a lower ER than a muni MMF like FTEXX that buys the same things.

A longer muni bond fund (what I suspect you were comparing) is going to subject you to more volatility, but it at least it usually won’t be correlated with stocks.

Westie

Westie

1,462 XP

3 months ago

I did find a California specific one: iShares Short-Term California Muni Active ETF. Looks like the tax equivalent yield is around 4.3%, and it has a 0.2 expense ratio. Seems pretty solid.

CincyFlyer

CincyFlyer

490 XP

3 months ago

It’s got a bit of volatility to it, but no worse than MEAR and sounds solid for your tax situation. I’d feel comfortable putting 100% of my EF in that.

Westie

Westie

1,462 XP

3 months ago

The idea of shielding the cash in a tax-deferred vehicle is interesting. I would still need to have enough in my taxable account to cover any actual emergency during a market drop (which I currently do not) or be willing to draw down Roth basis. Which I totally could do, it's just psychologically difficult. (Since I have access to the Mega Backdoor Roth 401k, I've been dumping money into my Roth vehicles rather than a taxable brokerage.)

Emergency funds are always presented with capital preservation taking precedence over tax optimization, but there's definitely a point where your assets as a whole are large enough that even a catastrophic market drop would still leave you with enough to cover an emergency (and my Roth basis + HSA receipts are large enough). Then the difficulty is selling during a market drop. But the concept of an asset swap mitigates that; it's mathematically the same as withdrawing from a HYSA in terms of your overall portfolio. I guess I'd just never thought of my emergency fund as part of my portfolio, but it is.

Two questions: 1) are we getting into tax tail wagging the dog territory here? I'm at the 32% bracket bordering on 35%, so let's say worst case scenario 35% federal plus 9.3% state plus 3.8% NIIT = 48.1%. $45k in HYSA earning let's say 4% is $1800/year in interest which is about $865/year in taxes. Is it worth keeping track of all this to save a good chunk of that $865/yr? Maybe?

2) I highly doubt I could get as high returns on my cash inside a retirement vehicle as outside. There's a bunch of accounts at different banks that will give you 5% APY up to $1000 or $2000. My current e-fund (about $30k, 6 months of lean spending) is split between these accounts and I-bonds plus a couple thousand at my primary bank, and is getting roughly 4.2% overall. Does tax protection outweigh higher yields?

BostonFI

BostonFI

5,244 XP

3 months ago

Is it worth keeping track of all this to save a good chunk of that $865/yr?

I'm not sure there's anything more to keep track of than what you're already doing. You already have taxable, Roth IRA, tax-deferred, HSA, HYSA, I-bonds, a primary bank account and are about to add muni bonds. For me personally, I don't think the landscape is further complicated by asset swaps. Chasing yield at banks is more work IMO.

You're correct that it would be tail-wagging-dog to use asset swaps to save only a little on tax, but the more cash you plan to hold and the higher your tax rate, the more you benefit from tax avoidance. I wonder if you've noticed that on one hand, you're not concerned with avoiding an $865 tax hit but on the other hand you're chasing 5% on $2K which is $100. A better return on your time might be to forgo chasing yield on cash and focus on tax optimization.

Westie

Westie

1,462 XP

3 months ago

It's less about the number of accounts and more about the level of active involvement. I have 8 different savings accounts my e-fund is in, and that's a lot, but I just set them up once and then don't have to worry about them unless an emergency hits. If you add investments into the mix, especially when they're quantum entangled with cash in your 401k, wouldn't you need to constantly adjust either or both as the value of the investment fluctuates? Saying to keep $45k of cash in your 401k and an equivalent $45k in VTI in a brokerage is ok but what happens when VTI goes up or down 10%?

BostonFI

BostonFI

5,244 XP

3 months ago

You're in the accumulation stage so you probably have 100% equities plus your emergency fund. Is that correct?

If you're 100% equities and $90K cash, you don't need to do anything when VTI (or whatever you hold) goes up or down. Why would you need to do something? Your allocation to cash hasn't changed—it's still $90K. Your allocation to equities hasn't changed—it's still 100%. What adjustment is needed?

Change in topic, but you may not want to do MBDR conversions at your tax bracket. You're paying a large percentage of tax on those conversions. At your high tax bracket (soon to be even higher), you likely want to switch focus to tax avoidance. Max your traditional 401k, do backdoor Roth IRA only (assuming no tIRA balances), get a HDHP with an HSA, hold your cash in a tax-deferred account or look into using BOXX in your taxable account, etc. Right now I think for you the Roth tail is wagging the dog.

Westie

Westie

1,462 XP

3 months ago

I'm out of other options than the MBDR or taxable, as far as I'm aware.

  • Maxed out traditional 401k
  • Maxed out HSA
  • Maxed out backdoor Roth IRA
  • No 403b, 457b etc available to me
  • California makes 529s almost useless, and I don't plan on much education spend anyway (no kids)

My 401k plan allows in-plan Roth conversions, so no tax on the gains because there are no gains. I make an after-tax contribution to my 401k and it's immediately converted to Roth. Given the choice between taxable brokerage or Roth, I think Roth is clearly superior right?

BostonFI

BostonFI

5,244 XP

3 months ago

You're correct. I mistakenly thought the MBDR conversion included pre-tax dollars. It sounds like you're doing all the right things with tax advantaged accounts. I would try then for tax avoidance on your cash since you plan to hold a large sum. The muni bonds accomplish this for half your cash. Instead of the other half in HYSA, maybe put it all in muni bonds or be willing to distribute basis from your Roth account when you need cash.

Good luck! You have a big shovel and are making the right moves.

JoeQ17

JoeQ17

1,527 XP

3 months ago

That’s good insight, still wondering why you want more than your 6mo cash that you already have? Like you noted even in a large crash you would still have access to some capital if needed right then. If your job is stable, and you’re still accumulating, 100% equities outside of your 6mo emergency (which I personally would carry even less).

If you have enough saved that you’re truly worried about portfolio capital, then maybe consider readjusting your portfolio to a partial risk parity. I myself have a golden ratio style portfolio that has a max drawdown of 24% over the past 50 years while still gaining 10%+. You don’t need to be at your FI number to start transitioning if this is your worry you’re trying to solve for.

So I go back to that question, what are you trying to solve for?

Westie

Westie

1,462 XP

3 months ago

Part of it is that I have an aversion to conflating retirement funds with emergency funds, and especially tax-advantaged funds with emergency funds. So having my Roth basis be partially allocated to emergencies seems messy. I don't currently have a large taxable brokerage, less than $5000. I'm loading up my MBDR instead. So it would have to be Roth.

As for why I want a large emergency cushion in the first place, well, the same reason anyone wants an emergency fund: emergencies. I want to be able to survive job loss and a large vet bill and a totaled car at the same time with minimal stress. But I want to do that without touching funds allocated for retirement. In my mental model there's a big, thick line dividing retirement funds and all other funds.

Maybe I should start building up a "slush fund" of non-retirement taxable brokerage investments.

BostonFI

BostonFI

5,244 XP

3 months ago

Muni bonds start to make tax sense the higher your tax bracket. If you're in the 32% (just guessing from your spend), then muni bonds are a reasonable strategy for cash.

Even with escaping tax from the muni bonds though, $45K in a HYSA is going to be a tax drag. Instead of a mix of HYSA and muni bonds, or at least in place of the HYSA, you might consider moving your cash allocation into a tax-deferred account like a 401k or IRA to shield the cash's dividends from annual taxes. This is the same suggestion as Joe's #2. You don't need to have access to distribute from the tax-deferred account in order to access the cash. You can use an asset swap with another account you do have access to take withdrawals from, like a taxable account.

The way an asset swap works between a tax-deferred account and a taxable account is you sell shares of something in the taxable account—let's say $5K worth of VTI—and withdraw that $5K to spend. Now in your tax-deferred account, you use the cash that's there to buy $5K worth of VTI. You've accessed the $5K cash you need to spend without changing your overall asset allocation across the portfolio. Whether VTI is up or down on the day you execute the swap, you're selling and buying at the same price, so no net change in the portfolio's value other than the $5K you withdrew.

JoeQ17

JoeQ17

1,527 XP

3 months ago

Hey Westie, so can I ask a question… why bonds? Is this cash you need in the next 5 years or just building reserves? Remind me where you’re at in your accumulation. A few ideas to chew on.

  1. If stable job, just keep 1-2 mo worth of cash in a savings or money market for ease (don’t worry about chasing yield) and rest put into equities in your brokerage
  2. If set on having bonds, then add the bonds into your 401k/IRA so no taxes in the yield and then do equities in your brokerage. This will limit taxes altogether (minimal qualified dividends). This still gives you the cash reserves you’re asking about but in a more tax efficient way And if you need the cash you do an asset swap.
  3. If it’s cash you plan to spend in the next 1-3 years then sure, muni bonds can be useful to reduce some tax burden but for what you’re talking, it’s a few thousand saved on taxes. If cash for 3-5+ yrs then maybe put that portion into a risk parity style portfolio to get some growth and limit drawdown.
Westie

Westie

1,462 XP

3 months ago

This is cash for an emergency fund, not for any particular purpose.

Even for someone with a decent amount of assets, 1-2 months of cash equivalents for an emergency fund seems…low? Throwing the rest at equities sounds like picking up pennies in front of a steamroller. Is it worth the risk of withdrawing during a market downturn?

JoeQ17

JoeQ17

1,527 XP

3 months ago

it’s a contrarian idea. But in reality the idea of emergency fund is you need it liquid, which includes a brokerage account.

Over 20 years I’ve dipped into my emergency fund, twice, both for house down payments. Key is I had a stable job and made more than I spent/saved so always had a little extra going into a brokerage account. Yes it’s a risk that there may be a downturn and you need to sell to get cash when it’s low. But the odds are in your favor. If odds of a downturn are 3 out of 10 years and odds of needing the emergency fund is say 25% of the years. Then it’s less than 10% that you would need cash and it’s a downturn in a given year. And worst case, get to do some tax loss harvesting.

While large cash buckets are great physiologically, from a financial aspect they pull down portfolio growth. Now being in drawdown I only keep 1-2 mo of cash on hand, rest is all in my portfolio and I’ll sell each month or so to pull out what’s needed. It’s really no different than your scenario other than I have to sell something each month.

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